To paint a wall you need paint, the right tools, and our tips. Then nothing can go wrong.
When it is clear whether the walls should be painted white or whether you have decided on a different color, the painting preparations begin. The following applies the more careful the preliminary work, the better the result.
Did you know that the wall colors influence the effect of the room?
Table of Contents
Before painting: the right preparation
Clear the room before painting possibly completely empty or layer any remaining objects in the center of the room to cover them well with foil, as well as the floor. Then mask the baseboards, window sills, door frames, and so on with masking tape and not only remove all lamps, but also all nails or screws. If holes are to be reused later, a match is inserted to mark them.
Do not grab a roller and brush too quickly, but examine the surfaces to be painted for damage. Small cracks and (dowel) holes must be filled and, if necessary, sanded smooth after drying. If new wallpaper or newly plastered walls are to be painted, there should be no problems with the substrate. It can look different if the old paint is present. In this case, the old coating must first be checked for its adhesion.
Painting walls: material and tools
In order to be able to paint walls, you need basic equipment. This consists of a bucket or paint tray, squeegee, fur roll, and corner brush. Today, interior walls are painted exclusively with ready-made wall paints ( dispersion paints ), which are available in various qualities in hardware stores or at paint shops. How much area you can paint with one color is usually written on the container. It is better to calculate a little more on rough surfaces.
For inaccessible places, for example behind radiators, there are rollers with a small diameter and an extra-long handle. There are also special rollers for a separate transition between wall and ceiling or for corners.
Cheap products made of plush or Vestan are not recommended; paint rollers based on polyamide or polyacrylic are better. Sheepskin rolls are expensive, but they are at the fore in terms of the coating result. Always moisten the roll before the first painting, then the fibers will open and the paint will be more easily absorbed.
For painting high walls or the ceiling, it makes sense to use a telescopic pole, which makes repeated climbing on ladders unnecessary. However, the effort required when painting with the rod is greater. Corners can be painted very well with long-handled, angled radiator brushes, but some also prefer the special corner roller.
In order to avoid constant cleaning of the brushes and rollers between work steps, the tools are packed in household foil or plastic bags in between. After finishing the work, the tool should be cleaned immediately to prevent the paint residue from drying. In the case of emulsion paint, it is sufficient to wash the tools thoroughly with water.
How to paint walls correctly
The general rule is first to paint the ceiling, then the walls. And always work with the incidence of light away from the window. First, carefully paint the edges with a brush or a small roller, then use a large roller (on the telescopic handle) to paint the entire surface.
Beware of white walls: you have to pay attention to this!
The paint is usually applied to corners and edges as well as hard-to-reach areas with a brush, on surfaces with a fur roller. Long-pile rolls are better suited for thin paints. They absorb more of it and are therefore more suitable for coarse-pored walls (rough plaster). Pasty and solid colors can be processed better with short-pile rolls. They are usually smaller and therefore easier to hold.
The entire ceiling and individual wall surfaces should be painted in one work step and breaks should be avoided, otherwise, signs of damage may be visible later: that is, always work “wet on wet” and roll the roll on the squeegee until nothing drips. When painting the walls, start with the corners and on the window side as well. Follow the light into the room. In order to create a surface that is as even as possible, it is advisable to take wall sections about 1 square meter in size and fill them with “M” or “W” movements, then apply the fine line (“finishing”) from top to bottom.
If you work in multiple colors and want to set off a wall in the room in a different color, for example, the corresponding area must be precisely masked, preferably with flexible painter’s tape. Important: After painting, remove the crepe strips as long as the paint is still damp, otherwise the paint edge will “fray” uncleanly. If the first coat does not completely cover – for example on a very dark background – the paint must be thoroughly dry before the second coat, otherwise unsightly “roll streaks” will result.
Special tools for painting walls
- The corner roller was designed for the 90-degree inside corner. The conical roller body is completely covered with real lambskin. The bracket is 40 cm long. The roller and bracket are exchangeable. Retail price: around 12 euros.
- The radiator roller is a classic among special rollers. With the flexible bracket, your options have been significantly expanded. “Euro-Flex” is also available in specialist shops and costs around 3.50 euros.
- Less known is the painting slipper, which is ideal for inaccessible places. A velour pouch is pushed onto the metal plate and knotted. Combined with the flexible bracket, it is unbeatable. Price: around 4.50 euros.
How much paint do you need for one coat?
The so-called range information on the container (paint bucket) relates to the painting of smooth walls. However, if a rough surface such as textured wallpaper, rough woodchip, or rough plaster is to be painted, the range is reduced by 10 to 30 percent.